Kailua-Kona

Mokuaikaua Church

Our first stop in Kailua-Kona was the Mokuaikaua church, which was the first established Christian church in all of Hawai`i. The church was established in 1820 as two separate hale (Hawaiian thatched roof house). The church that stands on the spot today was constructed in 1837 using bricks from demolished heiaus (Hawaiian temples) and wood from the `Ōhi`a trees that are found on the slopes of the mountainsides (Boshard, 2011).

Many churches like this one were established during this time period because this was the era of King Kamehameha II, the king who abolished the practice of the former Hawaiian polytheistic religion. He aimed to make Christianity the only religion in Hawai`i, and destroyed much of the evidence of the old religion. Not only was this influx of Christianity influenced by the king, but also those who had begun to colonize the Hawaiian islands. Many missionaries came from the United States and sought to spread the word of God to the people of Hawai`i. Their influence, coupled with that of the new order of Hawaiian royalty, led to the influx of Christianity into the Hawaiian culture.

Figure 2. The steeple of the Mokuaikaua church stands proudly as a testament to its Christian heritage. Much of the original structure remains intact, although it is clear that slight renovations have been made. (Photo by Ezra Zeitler)

Figure 3. View of the setting sun near Kokonuts bar in Kailua-Kona. (Photo by Donald MacGowan)

Kokonutz Bar and Grill

    After we visited the church we were given some time to browse the restaurants along the main drag in town, and some of us decided to make a visit to Kokonutz. We originally didn’t anticipate this to be anything more than a stop for dinner, but we were pleasantly surprised that it became an actual learning experience.

    We entered the restaurant and took our seats at the bar and were immediately labeled by the many patrons as tourists and treated accordingly. Unfazed, we started talking with our bartender Zoe, as well as a few of the regulars who had a lot of very odd but interesting things to say.

    One man with whom we spoke never gave us his name, but we learned a lot from him. He told us how he had moved to Hawai`i from California to embrace an even more laid-back lifestyle than the West coast could offer. He was a fisherman who caught fish early every morning and sold them to local sushi vendors and then spent the rest of the day doing whatever he pleased. This was a lifestyle that seemed all too common to see during the duration of our stay on the island. The gorgeous weather and relaxed laws in place on the Hawaiian Islands seem to perpetuate this laid-back island lifestyle.

We also learned that scorpions and spiders are in abundance on the island. This was made evident by the infected sting on the leg of a man with whom we talked. He said that stings from scorpions and bites from spiders were not uncommon, and there is a local alternative way to treat them. The concoction that he described was a mixture of apple cider, vinegar, and distilled water. When applied directly to a wound, the mixture would dry it out and disinfect it, therefore speeding up the healing process. We never did a follow up report with this man so it is unknown whether his remedy actually worked. However, the use of natural remedies such as his speaks in some ways to the culture and history of the Hawaiian people. Historically, it was difficult for the islands to be supplied with ample amounts of medicine, so natural, alternative methods were often used. While a very simple example, it still illustrates the point.

Our day finished with a breathtaking view of the sun setting over the bay. It sets very rapidly in Hawai`i due to the fact that it is located at such a low latitude. After the sun set, we walked back to the vans, leaving with more knowledge than we would have ever expected to get from some beach bums at a local bar.

You Make the Roll Sushi

Figure 4. Local, fresh sushi. (Photo by Ellen Sorenson)

While some of the group opted for the ocean view of Kokonutz Bar and Grill, the rest left in search of a more local dining treasure. After speaking to a local shop owner, we were directed to a small restaurant just a short walk from the roadside tourist traps. The sushi was simply amazing and priced much lower than what we were used to in Wisconsin. Most of us were unfamiliar with the specific types of fish in each roll, but they included Ahi tuna, crab, and eel.

Sources

Boshard, Henry. 2011. The History of Mokuaikaua Church. Kailua-Kona. Mokuaikaua Church.
Juvik, Sonia P. and James O. Juvik. 1998. Atlas of Hawai‘i. Hilo, HI: University of Hawai`i Press.
MacGowan, Donald. (Photographer). 2011. Sunset Over Oneoneo Bay [Photo], Retrieved November 30, 2011
    (http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Kailua+Kona&view=detail&id=D3BED5250B52326CA4DFD0561D113CDF64BBE31C&first=0&FORM=IDFRIR).
MacGowan, Donald. (Photographer). 2011. Sunset From Kailua Seawall [Photo], Retrieved November 30, 2011
    (http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Kailua+pier+kailua+kona&view=detail&id=BE77BB4B8DE1B879E9544915836F8E56C4AE7DF4&first=0&FORM=IDFRIR).

Banner photo by Donald MacGowan